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page title in graphics  Kapitolyong Panlalawigan


Special Thanks to: Mr. Noel Tamayo
for the use of his "Kuratsa" midi
Noel's Pilipino Folkdance Glossary


During a month-long vacation in Zambales in May 2000, I helped my mother straighten out some real estate official documents at the local office of the Community Environmental and Natural Resources Office (CENRO) in Inhobol, Masinloc, and at the Kapitolyong Panlalawigan in Iba. My experiences during the several times that my Mom and I visited these offices left me with a feeling of pleasant contradictions. To generalize and say that the Philippine bureaucracy in the 21st century is antiquated is perhaps a bit harsh; however, the provincial offices that we came in contact with did show enough signs of obsolescence in terms of management, methodologies, and equipment.

In terms of technology, the government offices I saw in the year 2000 were a bureaucracy stuck in time, a hark back perhaps to the administration of William Howard Taft. There were no computers to speak of. Was it in the Inhobol office of CENRO that I spotted an Underwood manual typewriter? That, definitely was vintage Taft. I saw no telephones in use, but saw an abundance of pancit and suman vendors coming and going, selling snacks and socializing with the workers during duty hours. As a consequence, the offices smelled of pancit palabok. I wouldn’t call it a circus - that would be too demeaning and misleading. I was reminded instead of a country flea market or garage sales abuzz with suburban Moms on a bright Saturday morning.

As we sat inside the hot and humid office in Iba waiting for our names to be called, I found myself in an excellent vantage point from where to observe the nuances of an office culture that I have only speculated about. Steeped in paperless procedures and operational methods of a highly automated big government, I was astonished to discover that land records were kept in thick bound folders stacked almost ceiling-high atop filing cabinets. Time after time, a clerk would pull out these heavy volumes to consult, cross-check, or verify a record. I sat there thinking the unthinkable: if this building with all its paper records were to be gutted by fire, it would be a catastrophic loss for the peasant landowner, unless the original records were stored in a computer somewhere or in redundant files maintained in microfiche or microfilm. The records in Masinloc were worse – pages were dog-eared and yellowed with age.

I found the general atmosphere of the offices lackadaisical, perhaps because of the oppressive heat and lack of air-conditioning, or perhaps because employees were paid a pittance. Female employees filed their nails while looking at what I thought to be a Mary Kay cosmetics catalog. The men, dressed in their blue "Gusot Mayaman" uniforms, return to their desks, perhaps after a long lunch capped with the obligatory siesta. Seated at their desks now, they assume an air of authority while flipping through index cards over and over as if searching for something. The processing of paper work was painfully slow, and was hand-carried from desk to desk. If you were closely observing the round-robin, you’d know that your name is about to be called when the paper trail reaches the end of its destination at the supervisor’s desk. She glances at you as if to size you up before she affixes the provincial seal and her signature on the document. She is easily recognized: her desk faces the rest as if in a classroom; her hairdo and make-up, despite the humidity, flawless. "Mr. Reyes, dito na po kayo."

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It took us half a day, moving from office to office and from station to station to complete processing a single real estate record. It was frustrating to say the least; however, the experience was for me a taste of a slice of Filipiniana that I would remember with amusement and fondness.

I never doubted the Filipino bureaucrat’s dedication to duty, and there never was any question in my mind that he could be just as efficient as his American counterpart were he given the proper tools to work with and were he appropriately compensated. He is polite but to a point; unfortunately, he is inflexible. Like in the Spanish educational system based on rote that all but wiped out the indio pupil’s capacity to reason and think independently, gray areas in modern decision-making processes do not exist in the mind of the rank and file Filipino bureaucrat. For all his shortcomings, however, it is his unique attitude and demeanor that I found fascinating.

It was almost four o’clock in the afternoon when we were handed the executed Deed of Trust, roughly five hours after we arrived at the Kapitolyong Panlalawigan. Stepping outside, I felt the burning heat of the afternoon sun and noticed the complete absence of shade trees in the wide open space in front of the stately edifice with the Corinthian columns. I wanted to go back inside to discuss with someone about the wisdom of planting trees around the building for reasons beyond aesthetics, but that would have been presumptuous of me. Besides, my Mother was waiting for me in the car.

It would be another fifteen minutes before we got back home to Salaza.

John Reyes



Mestizo House in Salaza

 

Panunuluyan

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